HOW TO BREAK IN YOUR HIGH-PERFORMANCE STREET OR RACING ENGINE:
Contrary to popular belief, you do not have to drive 500-2000 miles before your engine is "broken-in". Imagine having to drive your Hot-Rod or road racer from Los Angeles to San Francisco or worse yet Manila to Baquio! I know of individuals that have done this same type of ride to break in the engine....Imagine with a serious street-race engine it will be worn out by the time you get to Baquio!
Make sure once you have warmed up your engine. To "burp" the cooling system, this to eliminate "air pockets or bubbles" in the coolant.
Tighten the cap after doing this and not before!
Check the oil levels and make sure all is good and tight.
WARNING: Never start with Synthetic Oil in your Crankcase on a new engine! The rings will never seal and blow-by and oil consumption will result.
Driving a "new or rebuilt" engine on the highways at a constant RPMs for a long duration is not conducive to good break-in of your engine.
If you decide to do this, keep changing the cruising speed and stay away at a constant speed or RPM s. The differing engine speed will help this break-in process.
Here are some tips for you to consider to protect your investment:
1.If you have a High-Lift Camshaft, Start and bring the engine to Racing Temperature (160 degrees at least).
Then let it cool down on its own and re-start the process again "half a dozen times or more". if you have the patience to do this. The reason is for your "NEW" valve springs to be slowly "heat conditioned to its stressed environment"!
I have been guilty of this when i was still trying to figure it out, I would immediately go to the track with my new springs, and engine. after i have gone thru my checklist and go "Banzai"!! I trusted my engine and the damm thing rev all the way to 8600+ RPMs on the first several runs..
After several more runs my engine slowly lost its revving potential and the valve springs are gone!
The reason? I- Heat (thermal) Shock the springs and never gave it a chance to be conditioned in its new environment as it was manufactured, wound and placed in a box..
Just like the valve springs, Engine blocks has to be Thermally introduced,"Slowly" where they will take a permanent set as you hope it stays True and Round on its cylinder walls.
The block you hope will not shift and take a different set. Imagine if you fire up and check everything and go all out!!! You and I have seen this and you know this engine is living on borrowed time and horsepower compromised...
Once you have gone thru your heat/cool cycle, Go out and slowly accelerate your engine to mid-RPMs and immediately let go of the gas and let it "Engine Brake" with out forcing it too much.
Next go out and accelerate thru the gears @ mid RPM shifting from 1st, 2nd 3rd and so on, and let-off the gas and down-shift without forcing it from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and finally to 1st!
DO THIS ABOUT 6-12 TIMES AFTER YOUR HEAT CYCLING HAS BEEN DONE. AND IF YOU DO A "LEAK DOWN" CHECK -THE ENGINE RINGS WILL BE SEALED!
(This Engine ritual takes about 15 minutes and 4-8 miles)
NOW YOU ARE READY TO RACE!!! RINGS ARE BROKEN-IN....
NOW YOU CAN SWITCH TO SYNTHETIC OIL!
If not? Just spin out and replace the oil filter, and top off the oil level and change the oil at the recommended interval.
Why? Even new engines or rebuilt can have dirt or particles that may have been missed during cleaning and the assembly process.
This is cheap insurance for the money you spent on your engine...
As a side note, some people say the bearings need to be broken in. this is untrue as the clearances you have set, should not change as the oil cushions the surfaces and prevents direct contact between the bearing material and the crank.
I also believe this rituals even performed on a stock/mild engine will also be beneficial...I have been ask several times why i go "all out" the first time with a brand new engine. they did not realize i did my break-in at my shop parking lot or street....
Picture above is my run-up stand complete with oil pressure, temperature, tachometer and vacuum gauge.
This to monitor the vital information on the racing engine I just finished building.
After the start and heat cycling of the engine, I proceed to re-torque the heads and adjust the valves and air/fuel ratios and do a "leak down" or compression check just to be sure.
High Compression Engines exceeding 14.5-1 will usually always read high!
So it may seem good, therefore I do a "leak Down" test and anything past 8%? you do not have a competative engine!
3% or lower is indicative of a sealed or close to perfect cylinder condition.
This is ready to be taken to the Engine Dyno or installed into a race car, just bolt it in and start....all is set!
BEN ALAMEDA @ PARA, FB, BENALAMEDARACING.COM
(tech. articles dedicated to Chuck Stevens: Mentor & Friend)
Contrary to popular belief, you do not have to drive 500-2000 miles before your engine is "broken-in". Imagine having to drive your Hot-Rod or road racer from Los Angeles to San Francisco or worse yet Manila to Baquio! I know of individuals that have done this same type of ride to break in the engine....Imagine with a serious street-race engine it will be worn out by the time you get to Baquio!
Make sure once you have warmed up your engine. To "burp" the cooling system, this to eliminate "air pockets or bubbles" in the coolant.
Tighten the cap after doing this and not before!
Check the oil levels and make sure all is good and tight.
WARNING: Never start with Synthetic Oil in your Crankcase on a new engine! The rings will never seal and blow-by and oil consumption will result.
Driving a "new or rebuilt" engine on the highways at a constant RPMs for a long duration is not conducive to good break-in of your engine.
If you decide to do this, keep changing the cruising speed and stay away at a constant speed or RPM s. The differing engine speed will help this break-in process.
Here are some tips for you to consider to protect your investment:
1.If you have a High-Lift Camshaft, Start and bring the engine to Racing Temperature (160 degrees at least).
Then let it cool down on its own and re-start the process again "half a dozen times or more". if you have the patience to do this. The reason is for your "NEW" valve springs to be slowly "heat conditioned to its stressed environment"!
I have been guilty of this when i was still trying to figure it out, I would immediately go to the track with my new springs, and engine. after i have gone thru my checklist and go "Banzai"!! I trusted my engine and the damm thing rev all the way to 8600+ RPMs on the first several runs..
After several more runs my engine slowly lost its revving potential and the valve springs are gone!
The reason? I- Heat (thermal) Shock the springs and never gave it a chance to be conditioned in its new environment as it was manufactured, wound and placed in a box..
Just like the valve springs, Engine blocks has to be Thermally introduced,"Slowly" where they will take a permanent set as you hope it stays True and Round on its cylinder walls.
The block you hope will not shift and take a different set. Imagine if you fire up and check everything and go all out!!! You and I have seen this and you know this engine is living on borrowed time and horsepower compromised...
Once you have gone thru your heat/cool cycle, Go out and slowly accelerate your engine to mid-RPMs and immediately let go of the gas and let it "Engine Brake" with out forcing it too much.
Next go out and accelerate thru the gears @ mid RPM shifting from 1st, 2nd 3rd and so on, and let-off the gas and down-shift without forcing it from 4th to 3rd to 2nd and finally to 1st!
DO THIS ABOUT 6-12 TIMES AFTER YOUR HEAT CYCLING HAS BEEN DONE. AND IF YOU DO A "LEAK DOWN" CHECK -THE ENGINE RINGS WILL BE SEALED!
(This Engine ritual takes about 15 minutes and 4-8 miles)
NOW YOU ARE READY TO RACE!!! RINGS ARE BROKEN-IN....
NOW YOU CAN SWITCH TO SYNTHETIC OIL!
If not? Just spin out and replace the oil filter, and top off the oil level and change the oil at the recommended interval.
Why? Even new engines or rebuilt can have dirt or particles that may have been missed during cleaning and the assembly process.
This is cheap insurance for the money you spent on your engine...
As a side note, some people say the bearings need to be broken in. this is untrue as the clearances you have set, should not change as the oil cushions the surfaces and prevents direct contact between the bearing material and the crank.
I also believe this rituals even performed on a stock/mild engine will also be beneficial...I have been ask several times why i go "all out" the first time with a brand new engine. they did not realize i did my break-in at my shop parking lot or street....
Picture above is my run-up stand complete with oil pressure, temperature, tachometer and vacuum gauge.
This to monitor the vital information on the racing engine I just finished building.
After the start and heat cycling of the engine, I proceed to re-torque the heads and adjust the valves and air/fuel ratios and do a "leak down" or compression check just to be sure.
High Compression Engines exceeding 14.5-1 will usually always read high!
So it may seem good, therefore I do a "leak Down" test and anything past 8%? you do not have a competative engine!
3% or lower is indicative of a sealed or close to perfect cylinder condition.
This is ready to be taken to the Engine Dyno or installed into a race car, just bolt it in and start....all is set!
BEN ALAMEDA @ PARA, FB, BENALAMEDARACING.COM
(tech. articles dedicated to Chuck Stevens: Mentor & Friend)
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